DESIGN TRAVEL ·DUABI

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Dubai usually builds its culture the way it builds everything else: big, new and gleaming. Alserkal Avenue is the exception that proves how good the alternative can be. In the industrial backstreets of Al Quoz, a run of plain warehouses has grown, from the bottom up, into the most credible contemporary-art community in the Gulf. Its power is not spectacle. It is authenticity.


Tucked into the industrial heart of Al Quoz, well off the usual tourist trail, Alserkal Avenue is the centre of Dubai’s contemporary art scene, and one of the most rewarding places to spend a day in the city. It is easy to overlook, which is part of the appeal. There are no towers or domes here, just a network of low warehouses on 17th Street, and inside them one of the region’s richest concentrations of galleries, studios, cinema, performance and independent food and fitness. For creatives, art lovers and anyone after a different side of Dubai, it is a genuine highlight.

What makes it matter, though, is how it came to be. Almost everything cultural in the UAE has been built top-down, as a marquee institution designed to announce itself. Alserkal Avenue did the opposite. It grew.


From warehouses to a creative quarter

The district was founded in 2008 by the Emirati businessman and patron Abdelmonem Bin Eisa Alserkal, who took a cluster of family-owned industrial warehouses in Al Quoz and began reimagining them as homes for contemporary art. It started, in effect, with a single gallery and a hunch that Dubai needed somewhere for its creative life to gather. That hunch proved right. One gallery drew another, and over the years, and a major expansion in 2015, the Avenue grew into a community of more than 70 galleries, arts organisations, designers and independent businesses spread across roughly 500,000 square feet.

The design ethos is the key to its character, and it is one close to my own heart: adaptive reuse. Rather than demolish and rebuild, Alserkal kept the raw industrial fabric, the wide roller doors, the exposed structure, the honest concrete and steel, and let the art and the people supply the polish. That decision is what gives the place its grit and its credibility. It feels lived-in and real, the antithesis of the sanitised mall or the trophy museum, and in the art world that authenticity is worth more than any amount of marble.


Concrete, and a serious piece of architecture

For all its raw character, Alserkal Avenue has one deliberate architectural landmark, and it is a significant one. Concrete, which opened in 2017, is a flexible, multidisciplinary exhibition and events space at the centre of the district, and it was the first completed project in the UAE by OMA, the practice founded by the Pritzker laureate Rem Koolhaas. True to the district’s spirit, it was not a shiny new object dropped onto the site but a transformation of four existing warehouses, wrapped in movable translucent panels that let the building reconfigure itself for almost any use. It was shortlisted for the Aga Khan Award for Architecture in 2019, and it remains proof that adaptive reuse, done with real intelligence, can produce architecture every bit as ambitious as a ground-up landmark.


What to see and do

The galleries are the anchor, and they are the real thing. Spaces such as Carbon 12, Leila Heller Gallery, Custot Gallery, Gallery Isabelle van den Eynde and Gulf Photo Plus show serious regional and international work, and entry is generally free, so you can simply wander from one to the next. The programme peaks each spring around Art Dubai, when the whole district hums, but there is always something worth seeing.

Crucially, Alserkal Avenue is far more than galleries, and that breadth is what turns a visit into a day. You can take a painting class or join a workshop at thejamjar, catch an independent film at Cinema Akil, the region’s beloved arthouse cinema, or see live performance at The Junction. There is a fitness studio in CRANK for those who want to work up a sweat, specialty coffee at Nightjar, and plant-based food at Wild & The Moon to recharge. It is a whole small ecosystem of independent culture, which is exactly what its founder set out to build.

Behind the public-facing venues sits the Alserkal Arts Foundation, launched in 2019, which runs an artist residency programme and commissions public art, quietly doing the deeper work of supporting artists rather than simply showing them. That commitment to production, and not just display, is another thing that sets the district apart from a purely commercial art hub.


Final thoughts

Alserkal Avenue is the counter-argument to the idea that culture has to be commissioned, gleaming and grand to be real. Here, in a set of converted warehouses in an industrial neighbourhood, one patron’s belief in Dubai’s creative community has grown, organically and independently, into the beating heart of the city’s art scene, and it has done so without losing its grit. That is its lesson, and its charm: the most credible cultural place in the emirate is also its least polished.

For design-minded travellers, it offers something the landmarks cannot, the texture of a real creative community at work, and the pleasure of discovery that comes with a place you have to seek out. Whether you come for the galleries, a film, a class or simply a good coffee among artists, Alserkal Avenue earns its place near the top of any Dubai itinerary. It is proof that the best cultural districts are not built. They are grown.

Project Credits

Project Alserkal Avenue
Location Al Quoz, Dubai
Photography Martyn White